🔗 Share this article

Jack Martin

Colourist operating from the Golden State who excels at platinum tones. His clients include celebrated actors and well-known figures.

Which budget-friendly product is a must-have?

I swear by a microfibre towel, or even a smooth cotton shirt to remove moisture from your strands. Most people don’t realise how much stress a regular bath towel can do, particularly for silver or chemically treated hair. A simple switch can really reduce frizz and breakage. Another inexpensive must-have is a wide-tooth comb, to use in the shower. It safeguards your strands while smoothing out tangles and helps maintain the integrity of the strands, especially after lightening.

Which investment truly pays off?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – made with advanced materials, with adjustable temperature options. Lightened strands can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the correct device.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

DIY bleaching. Social media makes it look easy, but the reality is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. I’ve seen people severely damage their locks, break it off or end up with uneven tones that are nearly impossible to correct. It's best to steer clear of keratin or permanent straightening treatments on color-treated or grey hair. Such treatments are often too aggressive for delicate locks and can cause chronic issues or discoloration.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Clients selecting inappropriate items for their hair type or colour. Certain clients overapply violet-based cleansers until their blonde or grey strands looks drab and lacking shine. A few overdo on strengthening conditioners and end up with unmanageable, weak locks. The other major issue is thermal styling minus a barrier. In cases where you employ hot tools or dryers without a heat protectant, – particularly on bleached locks – you’re going to see brassiness, lack of moisture and splitting.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Shedding demands a multifaceted plan. Externally, minoxidil remains a top choice. I also recommend follicle treatments containing stimulants to enhance nutrient delivery and support follicle health. Applying a cleansing scalp wash often helps clear out buildup and allows treatments to work more effectively. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown great results. They work internally to benefit externally by addressing hormonal imbalances, anxiety and lack of vital nutrients.

In cases requiring advanced options, PRP therapy – where your own platelet-rich plasma is injected into the scalp – can be beneficial. However, I consistently recommend seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Shedding may relate to internal factors, and it’s important to determine the origin rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

---

A Trichology Expert

Scalp and Hair Scientist and leader in hair health services and items for shedding.

What’s your routine for trims and color?

My trims are every couple of months, but will snip damaged ends myself every two weeks to keep my ends healthy, and have highlights done every eight weeks.

What affordable find is essential?

Building fibers are truly impressive if you have thinning spots. These particles bond to your existing hair, and it comes in a assortment of tones, making it virtually undetectable. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had noticeable thinning – and also now while experiencing some considerable hair loss after having awful flu a few months ago. Since hair is non-vital, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your intake is insufficient, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

Which premium option is truly valuable?

If you have female pattern hair loss (FPHL), I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an non-prescription item is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the most effective improvements. In my opinion, minoxidil compounded with other hair-supportive actives – such as balancing elements, inhibitors and/or calming components – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Using rosemary essential oil for thinning. It's ineffective. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A 2% strength minoxidil isn’t enough to do much for hereditary thinning in males, so the study is basically saying they provide similarly low results.

Additionally, excessive biotin. Hardly anyone is biotin deficient, so taking it is unlikely to do your hair any good, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

Which error is most frequent?

I think the term “hair washing” should be changed to “scalp cleansing” – because the primary purpose of washing is to rid your scalp of old oils, dead skin cells, sweat and environmental pollution. Many individuals refrain from cleansing as they think it’s damaging to their locks, when in fact the reverse is correct – notably in cases of dandruff, which is worsened by the presence of excess oils. If oils are left on your scalp, they decompose and cause irritation.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a careful compromise. But as long as you are gentle when you shampoo and handle wet hair with care, it shouldn't harm your hair.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. Scientific support is substantial and tends to be most effective combined with additional ingredients. If you then want to try other things to support minoxidil’s effect, or you simply don’t want to or can’t use it, you could try collagen induction therapy (with a specialist), and perhaps injections or laser devices.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will resolve on its own. In other cases, thyroid imbalances or vitamin/mineral deficiencies are the driving factor – the most common being ferritin (stored iron), vitamin B12 and vitamin D deficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus